Strike rate

Set your rate. I'll call when it hits.

Tell me the rate you'd refinance at. I watch the market for you. The day it lands, I call — not next week, not after the rate moves again.

Set my strike rate

Why this is worth doing — 1:38, explained →
Your strike · watching
Today's rate
7.250%
Your strike
6.250%
The day it lands
+$266/mo
Checked every morning against live rate sheets
Why same-day matters

Rates move in hours, not weeks.

A CPI print drops Tuesday at 8:30 AM. By 10, the 30-year is 0.25% lower. By 2 PM, it's back. That six-hour window is when refinancing pencils — and most loan officers don't notice it opening. I do.

Watch

The two things worth understanding first.

Why set a strike rate?
What actually moves your rate?
How it works

Three things, in this order.

  1. 01
    You set the rate.
    Tell me what rate would make the math work for you. Send your latest mortgage statement and I'll confirm the savings against your real balance and payment — not an estimate you typed from memory.
  2. 02
    I watch.
    I track daily rate sheets across the lenders I work with — yours sits in a queue I check every morning, not when you call.
  3. 03
    I call.
    The day rates hit your strike, you hear from me before lunch. We lock the same day, while the window is still open.
Set yours

Set your strike right now.

Two numbers — your rate and what you owe. Every eighth of a point below you gets priced as a real payment the moment you type. Pick the one you want; that's your strike. Setting it costs nothing.

Your loan today
What would you like your strike rate to be?
Your payment today 7.25% $2,729/mo

Principal & interest on a 30-year schedule at your loan amount — taxes and insurance ride on top, unchanged by the rate.

$266
a month, once rates reach your strike
23 months
to clear about $6,000 in closing costs
$31,900
kept over ten years at that payment difference
or email it instead

Free, no obligation. You owe nothing until you actually refinance — and even then, only if the savings clear the closing costs. If they don't, I'll tell you that too.

Before you sign anything

Take the lower rate — and keep your payoff date.

Here's the part most people are never told, and it's the difference between a refinance that works and one that quietly costs you. A new loan starts its schedule over at month one. Take the lower rate and keep paying what you pay now, and the whole gain goes to principal instead of stretching the loan back out.

$450,000 at 7.25%, seven years in — $411,733 left, 23 years to go
What you doPaymentYears leftInterest left
Refinance to 30 — and keep paying $3,070$3,07019.2$296,911
Refinance to 23 years at 6.25%$2,81623$365,411
Keep the 7.25% — do nothing$3,07023$435,530
Refinance to a new 30, pay the minimum$2,53530$500,907

Same rate, same loan, four different outcomes — and the best one pays it off 3.8 years sooner than never refinancing at all, saving $138,619. The bottom row is what happens on autopilot: a lower payment that costs $65,377 more in interest over seven extra years.

Dropping the payment is sometimes exactly right — if cash flow is the reason you're refinancing, take it and don't apologize. What matters is choosing it on purpose. That's the conversation we have the day your strike hits.